Concrete
Concrete Driveways
A cracked, heaving driveway drags down the whole front of a house. We tear out failed slabs, fix what caused the failure — base, drainage, tree roots — and pour a driveway that stays flat and clean-lined for decades.
Most driveway failures are base failures. We don't pour over a bad base — we fix the grade, compaction, and drainage first so the new driveway doesn't crack the way the old one did.
We'll be straight with you about repair versus replacement. Sometimes a section replacement is the honest answer; when the whole slab has failed, we'll show you why.
What's included
- Full tear-out and replacement, or new construction
- Base and drainage corrected first, so the new slab doesn't inherit the old problems
- Proper thickness and reinforcement for vehicles — not patio specs
- Crisp expansion joints and clean edges against your lawn
Common questions
Repair or replace — how do we know?
If the damage is one or two panels — settled, cracked through, or spalled — section replacement is often the honest answer. If cracking runs across most of the slab or the base has failed underneath, replacement stops you paying twice. We'll tell you straight at the site walk.
How long can't we park on a new driveway?
Stay off it with vehicles for about 7 days. Foot traffic is fine after 24–48 hours. Concrete keeps gaining strength for about a month, and the first week matters most.
How thick should a residential driveway be?
Four inches minimum for cars, five or more where trucks will sit — over a properly compacted base either way. A thin slab over a soft base is why so many Tulsa driveways fail; that's the part we never skip.
Do you handle tear-out and haul-off?
Yes — demolition, haul-off, base correction, and the new pour are all one scope, one bid. You don't coordinate anything.
Planning concrete driveways?
Free quotes. Straight answers. Built right the first time.